MAKING PROCESS (TOILING AND GARMENTS REVIEW)

 

All the fabrics that I have chosen are all made from 100% cotton. The boiler suits that I purchased off of Amazon are 100% pre-shrunk cotton drill. In the size 42 and colour white. These boiler suits were used to make parts of a jacket, skirt and long sleeve top. The  garments made from the boiler suit were not toiled because the pattern from the deconstructed garment was already there. The garment was already sewn together but changed drastically because of my design after being unpicked and reconstructed. 

The Toiling process 

Throughout my toiling process I had created samples of detailed areas that I want to add to my garment to ensure it would be as neat and refined. During my toiling process I had draped the calico on the mannequin and made my pattern from that using the draping method for areas of my garment that needed to be patterned. I had done this with my corsets, the trouser of the corset jumpsuit however was patterned using a block and adjusting the waist measurements. The reason i had made these samples before doing it on my original garment is because I wanted to see how much of the garment the gathering of the circle would take. The sampling process was successful and had allowed me to transfer the same process through to my original garment  without having any problems. 

My original design for my toile was completely changed in the end, here’s my feedback about my original toile after my tutors had reviewed it:

‘Printed underwear/body needed to go under the jumpsuit. Make a new top. Make the corset flatter (like a stomacher - look it up in the L5 corset presentations on Moodle or google). Adjust the fit to the side panel on the corset. Drop the front crotch area but raise the back crotch area. Keep working on the placement of the textiles and consider the weight and suitability of fabric to create the holes. Consider lining the trousers for a more professional finish to the hole areas’ 

CHANGES I MADE TO MY TOILE: 

CORSET JUMPSUIT: 

• I had initially made the bust area of the corset attached to the corset, I went a head and removed that making the corset under the bust with the centre front high in between each breast. 
• The corset was made a bit shorter and I added long panels strips of fabric on the corset to add detail. 
• The back of the corset was separated from the trouser leaving the front of the corset attached. 
• The corset had eyelets and a cord in the back to adjust around the waist. 
• Moving on to the trouser area of the jumpsuit. I removed the gathered holes on the trouser and also the gathering on the lowered hip line. 
• I added two eyelet holes at the front of the trouser and cord feeding through the waist, holding up the back of the trouser so that it’s tightly fitted around the waist. It was adjustable. 
• The trouser was also straight with no holes. 
• The hemline of the trouser also had eyelet holes at the front and a cord feeding through which made it adjustable and added the gathering effect when tightened. 
• The other garment i had toiled was the skirt which had gathered circles that were also removed, the skirt was reconstructed as a straight skirt with a waistband consisting of the the eyelets at the front as well as the cord feeding through as well to make the waist adjustable and zip at the back. 
• The other garments that were not toiled, were all made fully from the deconstructed garment which did not need to be toiled. 

I purchased two boiler suits to make both Garments however before making the garments I dyed the fabric to dark brown. Whilst I was dying the garments the threads did not pick up the colour of the dye  which I liked. Because it added detail. Are use Dylon espresso which I purchased off of Amazon. It’s only took me one go to get the whole fabric died. After dying the fabric I wanted to experiment and do a tie and dye technique. I wrapped the fabric Innercircle tightly and then

Tied it with a string. I then Diluted the  bleach in a spray bottle and sprayed the Fabric. After spraying the fabric I left It for a hour and then went back and  took it out. The pattern on the garments came out how I wanted however the brown was too light. Instead of buying more dye I resorted to using coffee in hot water. After mixing half of coffee In the hot water I then soaked the fabric and uncovered it and left it for an hour. When I took it out the colour that was lighter on the brown had gotten darker and to my liking.

The white threads on the garment has not taken the colour which I preferred because it added stitching  details to the garment.

This is the final look of the garment  dyed and the tie and dyed. After these steps were completed I went ahead and deconstruct the parts of the garment that I wanted to take apart. After taking each section apart. I went ahead and payed out the garment to plan and assign each area to each outfit I’ll be making. For example I want to use the legs of the boiler suit as the sleeve of the jacket, so I went ahead a put the pieces for the jacket aside and to see if I had enough fabric to construct each garment. I had struggles with the jacket of all the garments I’ve made. Because I had used a domestic machine and the garment is layered, the needle would break a lot and the machine could not manage certain areas.